The Petrel (Act two)

I read somewhere that building a kayak was the result of a thousand acts of perfection. When I find the person responsible for that gem of wisdom, I will surely give them the credit they deserve. It is a true and profound statement. It would be easy to go to a dealer, find a suitable kayak, and purchase it. What you will end up with is mass produced, but very capable, craft, that you purchased. The desire to build one comes from a deep desire to create a boat, that is unique and yours. There are hundreds of different designs, some exceptional, some sublime. The decision on what kayak, what level of performance, building methods and choice of materials, is mind boggling. Since I work for the leading manufacturer of boat kits in the world ,Chesapeake Light Craft, the choice becomes somewhat easier.

 By now, if you have read the story leading up to this build, you know that I have a unique advantage when wading through the possibilities of what to do next. I have several favorites, The Shearwater 17 by Eric Schade, Night Heron, Night Heron Hybrid by Nick Schade, and my trusty Chesapeake 17lt were all possibilities. Since I have built many stitch and glue designs, I wanted to build a full strip built boat. The advantage? With a strip design, there is greater flexibility within the design, to fine tune the characteristics of the boat. Minor changes in hull shape can drastically change its handling characteristics. So the question was, what do I want to do with my kayak? I wanted a extremely nimble boat that is at home in confused steep chop. 

Enter the Petrel, a traditional Greenland style which at first glance seems like most other traditional low volume kayaks. Upon closer inspection you see through the beautiful form and lines, to what is lies beyond. It is the "Samurai Sword " of sea kayaks. It surfs and cuts through chop with ease. Turning response is immediate, with out seeming nervous. My first impression of this boat in it's element was incredible. It was like dancing with a partner who was much more skilled than I. 

The plan was formed. I want to take the same approach as the last build, but execute it better than before. This time I will use a thinner strip, 3/16" and construct the boat using rolling bevels. A rolling bevel is where the angle on the edge of the strip changes along it's length to match the adjoining strip perfectly. If performed properly, the joint will be almost imperceptible. I will be using a heavier fiberglass cloth for durability and Carbon/Kevlar hybrid cloth on the interior. For the deck, quilted maple is on order. The whole boat will be stained red, to highlight the maple top. I plan to incorporate the design in the coaming as well. This time I will carry it into the cockpit recess. So, things tend to change during builds. Lets see where this one goes.


Getting Started-The strongback and forms

The foundation of a strip built boat is the strongback. It must be straight. There are several materials it can be constructed with, plywood, solid timber or aluminum are all viable materials. I chose to use the box beam we manufacture at CLC. Properly assembled, it will be nice and straight. Plywood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood, so it is preferable.

I will be gluing the box beam together instead of mechanically fastening the joints. This should give me time to adjust it and make sure it is straight. If screwed or nailed, a bend could be introduced during construction.

 I cut the ends, prior to assembly. It can be hard to perform an accurate cut once assembled. The bow and stern forms are attached to these ends and accuracy is important for a tight fit.

 The assembled beam is nice and straight. I constructed a pair of "towers" to hold the beam tightly while I work on the boat. There is nothing worse than trying to fit a strip on a moving target.

 I decided to use a method that Nick Schade uses for holding the forms stationary on the beam. Each one is the proper length to accurately space the forms. The beam was sanded smooth and the corners rounded, so the forms could float freely without binding. This is important because the forms and spacers are stacked. Tension is applied in the center with wedges.

 I started milling my strips from 16' Western Red Cedar. I had cut one board before I realized I was not wearing a very important piece of equipment, a respirator. Cedar is tough on the body, it didn't take long for my respiratory system to protest about it's presence. I laid out the strips in a book-matched pattern. This was to check the color match. I am looking for consistency rather than a grain match here.

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900 feet of strips later, I am ready to start putting them on the boat. Up next, sheer strips and cheater strips. Stay tuned.